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Transparent FDM 3D Prints are Clearly Stronger!



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Using a special parameter, you can’t only print transparent FDM 3D prints – this parameter will also make your parts super strong!

Transparent Overture PETG: https://geni.us/rdzE

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Website article: https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/transparent-fdm-3d-prints-are-clearly-stronger
Rygar1432 parameters: https://www.printables.com/model/15310-how-to-print-glass
My test model: https://www.printables.com/model/273948-test-model-for-transparent-petg-printing

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📚 Further information:
Tom’s video on clear 3D prints: https://youtu.be/QkfQri2B0PY
T3DPG video on transparent PolySmooth prints: https://youtu.be/92C10-n21Po
Colorfabb article: https://learn.colorfabb.com/lets-make-something-clear/
dasFilament PETG: https://www.dasfilament.de/filament-spulen/petg-1-75-mm/136/petg-filament-1-75-mm-natur?c=21

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Chapters
00:00 Introduction
01:24 3D Printing Transparent in Resin
02:35 Transparent FDM printing
05:25 Flow Multiplier
06:32 Extrusion Temperature
07:39 Why are regular prints not transparent
08:38 Part Cooling
09:15 Print Speed
10:10 Sponsored Section
11:42 Static Strength Tests
15:18 Impact Strength
16:05 Conclusion

#3Dprinting #strong #transparent
DISCLAIMER: Part of this video was sponsored by Squarespace.

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46 Comments

  1. So thats how you do it… I have been having problems because prusaslicer did not allow same pattern top bottom and solid infill so i always got this ugly waffle look, and I couldn't find info on how to resolve this even after commenting on many videos. Honestly they should just make a setting that keeps same pattern all the way through, and they should allow you to set the start point of the layer pattern to a certain corner or point as well.

  2. Ну и нахрена нужно это печатать, какая от этого говна польза? Напечатать, чтобы снять видео об этом?

  3. Best tips I can offer for making transparent parts is to set your layer height very low and your temperature lower than the lowest recommended material setting by about 5 degrees and print at a much slower speed giving the nozzle time to iron the material flat. Also do NOT use a very pointed nozzle. Instead try to find one with a fat flat shape at the end or make one yourself by finely sanding and stoning a very broad flat and highly polished shape to the end to achieve better ironing. There you go.

  4. I have couple ideas for Stefan's future investigations.

    1) Can you improve mechanical properties of the hooks by injecting epoxy resin into a hollow 3d print
    2) How many times can you dry filament, before it starts changing it's properties

    Please like this comment for Stefan to see it.

  5. This is really cool! But now i am curious is if you sinter (i think that whats it called) these parts you will get even better adhesion , with less shrinkage

  6. I am under the impression that clear "natural" filament is stronger than any colored filaments. The color additives can only reduce the strength. So part of this impressive performance is likely due to the lack of additives and is not transferable to colored filaments.

  7. Hey! I really love everything you do on this channel!
    I have a very important question!
    Do different colored PLA filaments have different strengths or brittleness???
    Does pigment affect how strong or brittle the part will be ???

    I would be really happy if you could answer me or make a video about it 🙂

  8. I love this! I've been using similar parameters for testing with clear PLA. I will adjust my params with these new findings and apply to PLA. 🙂

  9. Schade daß dieses Video von einem deutschsprachigem auf Englisch dokumentiert wird. Was für ein Sinn soll da hinter stecken? Würde gerne mehr Videos von dir sehen aber ich kann leider nur ultra bescheiden die Englische Sprache.

  10. I wonder if some of the techniques here solve some problems @Integza is running into in creating his transparent turbines, rocket nozzles and other stuff he's doing.

  11. This is not a plug but I second this we’ve been using a transparent grey pla + from 3d fillies in Australia for prototyping parts and man it’s still going after the silly things we’ve put this filament through, sad to see it’s being discontinued as it’s far superior to many other expensive filaments we’ve used

  12. Hello @CNC_Kitchen, hoping you get this msg. I think I have discovered an annealing process using no direct heat & no additives. But, fuses PLA layers without warping nor property breakdown. Would like to speak too you privately about maybe showcasing it on your channel.

  13. Could you make an edge-lit sign? With embedded LEDs, even? Dunno, maybe not – those signs depend on the text (or whatever) microscopically being like the Himalayas.

  14. Do get clear prints with a nicer surface and less overhang problems it might help to use cooling only for the perimeter and sections with overhang (if this can be set up in the G-Code)

  15. Would be interesting to see what would happen to the strength if you combined the transparent strength settings, with the traditional methods for strength, ie, multiple perimeters, perpendicular alignment of the layers and filaments with additional materials in them (ie carbon fibres). There would seem to be a lot of potential for really strong parts

  16. I had tried this years ago after seeing that color fabb article but it only sort of worked. I'm looking to turn a WII into a portable and a clear case would be awesome to show it off.

  17. Speaking of clear resin parts, I was so disappointed when I saw how much the clear resin yellows, especially after post-curing. Interestingly, the kind of clear UV resin used for casting jewelry and such does not yellow appreciably, and it has optical clarity with an index of refraction virtually identical to clear acrylic, but I don't believe you can print with it.

    Nevertheless, this made me wonder about quickly 3D printing something in clear filament with lots of contiguous voids, then putting it in a vacuum chamber, immersed in clear UV resin, and drawing the air out until the resin filled every void. Then you'd just have to take it out, let the excess drip off, and cure it. Actually, I just realized that that's essentially the plastination process used in BodyWorlds, just with 3D prints instead of cadavers.

  18. you still use gluesticks on the bottom? I use a sheet of glass. cleaned with alcohol. super easy to use, no additives, smooth, n they stick perfectly. Most people screw this up simply because glass requires more heat.

    if you want better bridging but want clear on majority why not just turn fan on during a bridge area?

  19. Thanks so much for Stefan, this was REALLY neat to see and I'm excited for all the potential! You putting out great ideas like this to the world is awesome because it introduces a new line of thinking to so many makers out there.

    The parameters and settings you're using for this remind me almost exactly of what I do to get functional strong "rubber" straps when printing with flexible filaments like NinjaFlex, which is kind of my passion with 3D printing. I print very slow and with 100% infill or more to ensure there are voids and weak spots within a TPU print. I'm excited to try what you showed in this video with the clear filament I have sitting around. =]

  20. Thanks for the video. I thought that glass prints were impossible. I’m using a Creality CR-10S with ColorFabb HT-Clear. It has driven me mad in the last week, done a dozen test prints changing same parameter as you have, and i think that finally i got it. For the infill i prefer to replace it with the 99999 top surface layers, otherwise cura does weird things with infill (starts on the middle!). For me 85°C bed, 260°C end, 20mm/s speed with 12mm/s top/bottom speed, without extra wall, 105% flow with 107% for top/bottom, 0,5mm line width, 0,12mm later height, brim with 20 perimeters, no bubbles on extruded material, the extruder step calibrated (CRITICAL!), using Cura 5.1.0. Using BuildTak. Will be using the parts for a lighting project on my car.

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